Parts washer heater upgrade
Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 9:24 pm
I decided to forego the pump and do a heater upgrade to my parts washer. Honestly the pump isn't that useful whereas hot solvent (or even degreaser) is.
I'm using an upgrade I found from a guy where he welded a 1.25 to 1in reducing bushing onto the side of the tub and then used the heater element's gasket, some RTV and a 1in Conduit lock nut to hold everything together. I was on the fence as to welding an element onto the tank or having a removeable element in a tube... I went with the welded element because I can protect the element in the tub and not having to move it in and out seems like a good idea. People who use/make bio-diesel use a lot of 'drop in heaters' but I really don't think that I'm gonna use the parts washer that hard once the G506 and G508 are done... so I went with the less 'fiddle with it' option.
Spot the hole for my nibbler.
Traced the Reducer leaving enough lip to weld it to the tank. Cut tub and sand off the paint.
Reducer in place and first round to tack welds (MiG) ground down.
Test fitting element (4500Watt @ 240VAC) Note the pinhole that is leaking water. The reduce was thinner than the tub steel so getting good penetrating welds without burn through was tricky.
I didn't have solvent proof RTV to seal everything up so the element has been fitted, but not installed.
I will put in a t-stat (the lower t-stat on a water heater is for a a single element) so the system is a set it and forget it temp wise. I could have just unplugged the element when the tank was hot enough but if you forget then you could have super hot magma and I don't want to get burned.
Here are the bags for the reduce and the lock nuts.
The element was $11, the t-stat $8 the reducer $2 and the lock nut $2. The RTV will be about $8. So about $30 so far and I already have a metal box, switch, cover and cable for power. So if you had to buy those items that's probably about another $6-8.
Will finish up tomorrow with more pics.
I'm using an upgrade I found from a guy where he welded a 1.25 to 1in reducing bushing onto the side of the tub and then used the heater element's gasket, some RTV and a 1in Conduit lock nut to hold everything together. I was on the fence as to welding an element onto the tank or having a removeable element in a tube... I went with the welded element because I can protect the element in the tub and not having to move it in and out seems like a good idea. People who use/make bio-diesel use a lot of 'drop in heaters' but I really don't think that I'm gonna use the parts washer that hard once the G506 and G508 are done... so I went with the less 'fiddle with it' option.
Spot the hole for my nibbler.
Traced the Reducer leaving enough lip to weld it to the tank. Cut tub and sand off the paint.
Reducer in place and first round to tack welds (MiG) ground down.
Test fitting element (4500Watt @ 240VAC) Note the pinhole that is leaking water. The reduce was thinner than the tub steel so getting good penetrating welds without burn through was tricky.
I didn't have solvent proof RTV to seal everything up so the element has been fitted, but not installed.
I will put in a t-stat (the lower t-stat on a water heater is for a a single element) so the system is a set it and forget it temp wise. I could have just unplugged the element when the tank was hot enough but if you forget then you could have super hot magma and I don't want to get burned.
Here are the bags for the reduce and the lock nuts.
The element was $11, the t-stat $8 the reducer $2 and the lock nut $2. The RTV will be about $8. So about $30 so far and I already have a metal box, switch, cover and cable for power. So if you had to buy those items that's probably about another $6-8.
Will finish up tomorrow with more pics.