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It seems that my 41 is getting more '41-er' at each passing moment.

Got to the motor to get some block and casting numbers:



Its a GM block:


Here are the head numbers:


The valve cover has 4 holddown screws, not two centerline. Not sure what to make of that.

RATS!

Its a 1960's 235. But the head is supposed to be the 'better one'.

Damn... was hoping for an original engine.

If it's a 1960s engine Paul it will be a full pressure crankshaft type without the dippers on the big ends. You can pick the earlier 216/235 engine at a glance due to the boss on the side of the crank case for the oil distribution valve. At one end of the boss an oil line is connected that curls around into the side of the block. It's to feed the valve rockers. Both these features make the early engines very easy to identify.

David

Actually there are much easier ways to pick a later full pressure insert bearing motor

AVOID:
full height side cover (all the way up to the valve cover, around the spark plugs).
Two centerline bolts on the valve cover
high mounted/short shaft water pump (which sucks because when you do find a 55-62 235 you'll need to buy a short shaft water pump AND an adapter plate).

The 235 didn't undergo an significant exterior changes till 1950, and then you could still have dippers post 1950 depending on the model.. iirc 1953 was the last year for them.

The dipper/babbit motors are good motors. I have one and its still running. They get a bad rap because they are not good candidates for hi performance applications. But they work find and last a lonnnngggg time. If you can get the piston rods machined for insert bearings, or pick up a set on ebay, I'd run the early 235 with no hesitation.

I'm waiting to snatch up another early 235 on the cheap.